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In this episode of Ask Lattice Josh talks with Nutritional expert, Ed Smith, all about what we can do as climbers to sustain our training as well as what several of one of the most typical blunders are. Ed is presently researching a PhD in nutrition, concentrated on the nutritional intake of mountain climbers. So we are obtaining understandings warm off the press. Ed additionally covers one of the most asked inquiries we obtain asked as trainers, "what's the best way to reduce weight for my optimal" as well as if this is also needed.
This conversation ran over as we remained to talk with Ed about his experience with calisthenic training. Ed is total monster at this form of training and also has several years under his belt. Enjoy this room, we'll launch this episode in our following Ask Lattice.
Introduction (0:00).
Haribo or banana? (1:05).
What typical routine would you advise adding/changing for a lot of climbers? (3:00).
What is the best/safest technique to cut weight? (6:50).
What does a nourishment strategy resemble? (15:10).
Any kind of interesting findings thus far in your PhD? (24:05).
What can climbers do to much better understand their diet plan? (32:52).
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Bananas & sesame snaps, bite of one bite of another… phenomenal!
I keep it like Alexander Huber : yogurt and three to four beers
Fantastic video, audio was just a bit quiet on Ed’s mic
We cut this one short, watch out for part 2 where we discuss Ed’s calisthenics training.
Before or after training?
That sounds amazing! Power combo!
Glad you liked it. Thanks for the feedback too.
Can you guys fix the audio mix so the mics are higher and/or add subtitles? I’m trying to listen on a laptop with full volume and still missing some of what Ed is saying
@Lattice Training yogurt before, beer afterwards
thanks really interesting. Does Ed see REDS in climbers. Know it can be a problem in other sports. And what does he think about Dave MacCloud’s take on high fat low carb diets. It seems very individualised; depends on so many factors, genetics, epigenetic markers, gestation, environment and that’s not even considering training load. You only need look at the Dutch hunger winter for evidence.
Hi. regarding losing weight. Does it really make sense to lose weight slowly if you don’t have a lot to cut? It will mean you will be in a caloric deficit for longer. Would it not be better to do it quickly?
Watching this while munching on a phat cheese toasty
I prefer jelly babies as they come pre-chalked.
Hope it’s with a cup of Yorkshire Tea! 🙂
Hi Nick, we’ve put out a reasonable amount of content (incl some on this channel) on our social media regarding RED-S so in short answer, yes we do see it in climbers unfortunately.
you can do it quickly but it’s brutal if you’re maintaining a high level of physical activity at the same time.
This video is really good 👌
A lot better than your previous video on nutrition.
I don’t know what a “Jelly Baby” is but it sounds great 😂
@Lattice Training during oO
Hi Marek, In this video Ed does mention that cutting weight in a short period can be beneficial if you don’t have much to loose. I believe he said this can work well during a taper period which is usually a couple weeks. But there is such a thing as loosing weight to quickly! Maybe worth having another watch.
Thanks Thomas! Part 2 coming soon, we ask Ed about his calisthenics training and why his biceps are so big.
@chaosengine we should have known. The real use for a chalk bag, beer holder.
A very sugary sweet! They are great!
😂😂😂
im on the opposite end im always trying to gain weight instead of lose it…6’2 and 142 lbs
love your content always but please work on the audio quality/levels. Maybe see if you can squeeze the dynamic range in post, or use a different mic setup 🙂
@Matthias Kinateder thanks for the feedback. We are making sure to adjust part 2!
I would appreciate subtitles.
When Ed mentions the “recommended” 500 kcal deficit per day, what is that relative to maintenance calories? Are we assuming a 2000 kcal maintenance? Percentages would be very useful in future videos (esp seeing the proclivity for disordered eating patterns in climbers as lighter = oftentimes seen as entirely better)
Hi Cinni, thanks for the feedback. You are correct, percentages are generally more accurate for the indivuidal. I think most viewers can contextualize “500kcal” but we know this will be different for each person and we don’t suggest this the rule.
Thanks Nicholas, sorry for the audio issue. We’ve tried to fix it on the next one.
@Lattice Training no worries, hope it was constructive feedback! My hearing isn’t amazing so it gets between me and your great content 💖
I did Keto (less than 20g carbs per day) for about 6 months my climbing performance was not affected negatively. On my regular diet I also find that I crave vitamin C rich food much more when climbing regularly compared with my time spent practicing other sports.
Hi Jigoro, good to hear you had a good response to Keto. Some people do really well on this diet. Interesting to hear about the Vit-C craving.
How about boiled egg? I have tried that a few times, wasn’t too bad.
RedBull, bananas before or during and yogurt after 🤟
I would just get it done in a reasonable time. Like 0.5 % of bw a week then start maintenance or a bulk as soon as you hit the desired weight. Long diets are horrible for progress and you will lose strengths even if your bw to str ratio gets better.
Just stumbled across this great talk. Thanks a lot to Ed for all the insight. Just one question: I made some good experiences with intermittent fasting. My “eating period” is usually between 7-15 and I try to stay away from solid food the rest of the day. Most of my training (climbing/strength training/running) falls into the fasting period, especially in the evening because I am also a working dad. So far I found this pretty beneficial to keeping a good “fighting weight” and performing well. I always try to eat healthy not cutting out any macros and meeting my estimated caloric requirements (I might be wrong there…). So far I have a good feeling (way better than with low carb). Do you think this could work for some individuals or is it damaging the body way too much? Would appreciate your thoughts on that. Thanks a lot from Germany!
500kcal a day deficit from maintenance is generally suggested because it roughly equates to a 0.5kg drop in weight per week. This is considered a healthy maintainable amount to loose a week but can be upped to 1000kcal. Because of this percentages don’t really matter. Someone’s who maintenance is 2000kcal will loose 0.5kg a week with a 500kcal deficit, as will someone who’s maintenance is 3500kcal.
*wandering of with your thoughts back to the wall while all this talking*
I’m not a doctor but it probably wouldn’t hurt to fuel up a bit after workouts, DOMS be like